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Size:
Approx. 20 x 20 cm
Material:
Knitting needles 4 mm and 3.5 mm
Crochet hook 3.5 mm
30 gr Cotton Aran yarn in 2 Colors
Gauge:
Is not that important as it just will affect the finished size
Abbreviations:
ST: Stitch
E: Edge Stitch
M: Main Color (Work the Main Color of this side knit and the contrast Color purl)
C: Contrast Color (Work the Contrast Color of this side knit and the Main Color purl
The Dishcloth, Potholder is quite quick knitted, especially if the technique is known. The Cloth is a cute idea for a kitchen decoration or Perfect for mother’s day or any Birthday.
I tried to write the pattern as beginner friendly as possible, if you have any questions or issues during knitting, I’m more than happy to help. Eiter via a comment here or via a private message.
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How to knit in Double Face:
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What is Double Face knitting:
Double Face Knitting is a technique in which we can work two sides at the same time, the pattern mirrors to the other side. Both sides are in stockinette stitch. It creates a reversible Piece, perfect for warm items or knitting pieces with a pattern where we don`t have to worry about floating yarns
I would recommend using a Needle 0.5 or 1mm smaller than what’s written on the yarn (ever person is different, so Gauge is really important). Also important is to keep a good Tension so the pattern looks even.
The stitches are always worked in 2 st groups, 1 knit 1 purl, the knit is for the front the purl for the back side. There are other techniques where this might change as in ribbing or when garter stitch is wanted but the first stitch of this group is always the stitch belonging to the front side, the second stitch to the back.
For Double face knit in the Round just close to round and work the chart always from right to left. The outside Color is always knitted, and the inside colour is always purled.
Cast on: (2 Methods I use)
1. Method: The invisible cast on:
We always cast on the double number of stitches. Always 1 st for each Color. So, if the chart shows 12 st we need 12 st in Color A and 12 st in Color b. so 24 on the needle.
1. Start with a slipknot with both Colors, but do not count this as a stitch. (Will be opened at the end)
2. wrap one Color Thread around your thump, the other around your index finger. Start with the Color of the index finger.
3.-5 Go underneath the front yarn and grab the back yarn from above and bring back, underneath the front yarn, to the front. Pull tight by spreading the fingers. The First stitch is on the Needle
6. -8 Go underneath the back Yarn, grab the front yarn from above and bring back, underneath the back Yarn, to the front. Pull tight by spreading the fingers.
Work 3 – 8 until all stitches are on the Needles.
Important when turning the work to start the first row, hold the threads and turn counterclockwise so no stitch is accidentally opened
2. Method: The Long tail Cast on with both threads together:
Work this like the normal long tail cast on just take both threads at the same time. The given nr of cast on stitches is for both Colors together (if it says cast on 10 stitches you cast on 10 stitches with both Colors so you would have 20 in total)
With this method the order of Color from the stitches might be wrong and has to be adjusted in the first working row. Where you decide which Color is the main Color of this side and make sure this Color is the first worked of the Double stitch with a knit and the other as a purl.
How to hold the threads:
There are many different ways on how to hold the threads with a knit ring devise, both hands, both threads left or right, one left one right. Whatever feels most comfortable for oneself.
I always hold both threads on the left hand, wrap both around the little finger, separate the threads with my middle finger and lay them both over the index finger.
Important is to keep the main Color of the side we are working at the moment to keep in the front the other in the back.
For a knit stitch: keep both threads in the back and knit with Color A
For a purl stitch: bring both yarns in the front, make sure to keep the Color B threads in second place, purl with Color B.
Start the Double Knitting:
The first stitch shows the Main Color of this side. Due to the invisible cast on the knit stitches are all twisted, so they need either be untwisted or worked through the back Loop. Only in the very first row
Work now all the stitches in alternation 1 kn 1 pu, knit with both threads in the back, purl with both threads in front.
At the end of the first Row well reach the Slipknot if the first method was used for the cast on, which is just opened.
Edge Stitch: (from the second row on, again 2 methods I use)
1. Method: Gives a smooth edge with both Colors separate:
Edge stitches can either be worked with 2 stitches knitted together with both threads (which I don’t find that nice) Or slip the last 2 stitches which gives a nice border.
For this, work until 2 st left (one of each Color) the Kn stitch is slipped as if to purl with both threads in the back. The purl stitch is slipped as if to purl with the associated thread in the front.
Turn the work and lay the thread which is now the main Color in front of the work for the first two stitches.
Work them as they appear, 1 knit with associated thread in the back the other in the front, 1 purl with both threads in the front.
2. Method: The Edge stitches are worked together:
This Method gives a smooth edge with both Colors together.
The stitches are either knitted together or slipped together.
This method is worked as follows:
The first stitch of each row is slipped both threads together as a knit stitch. The last stitch of each row is slipped as purl again both threads together.
Work Patterns and follow Graphs:
If worked flat the graph is read all uneven nr right to left all even nr left to right. If worked in the round always from right to left.
If not stated different the white is always the main Color of the row worked and the black the second Color.
Work the stitches until the Color change is needed, twist the threads work the knit in the second Color and the purl in main Color, twist back when all st are worked in the different Color to bring the threads back to the origin position.
Invisible Cast off: (2 Methods)
1. Method: with the sewing needle
This method creates a smooth ending with both Colors separated, it fits the first method for the cast on and edge stitches to have the Color all the way through separate and a clear border.
Divide the stitches on two different needles, all from Color A on one needle all Color b on second Needle. (pic 29 +30)
After the separation cut the threads, one will be used to bind off the other one will be weaved in. (pic 29 -30) use a Darning needle to bind off.
1. Pull the yarn through the first st on the first needle purl wise without dropping stitch
2. Pull through first stich on second needle knit wise without dropping stitch.
3. Pull through first stitch on first needle knit wise and drop stitch
4. Pull through next stitch on first needle purl wise without dropping stitch
5. Pull though first stitch on second needle purl wise and drop stitch.
6. Pull through next stitch on second needle knit wise without dropping stitch
Repeat step 3 – 6 until al stitches worked.
2. Method: The “normal” way
With this method the stitches are worked together like the second methods for the cast on and edge stitch it greatest a cast off with the Colors “waved” into each other.
For this Method, knit always both Colors together, and cast off as usual. Knit 2stitches, slip first stitch over second, knit another one and slip the first again over second, and so on until the end.
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The Tulip Potholder:
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For this Pattern I have used the second method of the explained cast on, edge stitch and cast of with both threads held together for each of it.
Let’s start:
Cast on 36 stitches with both threads held together with the 4 mm knitting needle. Switch then to the 3.5 mm needle.
1. Row: 1 E, 34 M (as the stitches were cast on together they might not be in the correct order and need to be worked separately, just make sure to work them in the right order) 1 R ( 36 St)
2. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
3. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
4. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
5. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
6. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
7. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
8. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
9. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 4 C, 14 M, 4 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
10. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 5 C, 12 M, 5 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
11. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 7 C, 8 M, 7 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
12. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 7 C, 6 M, 7 C, 7 M, 1 E (36 ST)
13. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 8 C, 2 M, 8 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 ST)
14. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 18 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 ST)
15. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 ST)
16. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 ST)
17. Row: 1 E, 10 M, 14 C, 10 M, 1 E (36 ST)
18. Row: 1 E, 10 M, 14 C, 10 M, 1 E (36 ST)
19. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 ST)
20. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 18 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 ST)
21. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
22. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
23. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 ST)
24. Row: 1 E, 11 M, 12 C, 11 M, 1 E (36 ST)
25. Row: 1 E, 13 M, 8 C, 13 M, 1 E (36 ST)
26. Row: 1 E, 14 M, 6 C, 14 M,1 E (36 ST)
27. Row: 1 E, 14 M, 6 C, 14 M, 1 E (36 ST)
28. Row: 1 E, 15 M, 4 C, 15 M, 1 E (36 ST)
29. Row: 1 E, 15 M, 4 C, 15 M, 1 E (36 ST)
30. Row: 1 E, 16 M, 2 C, 16 M, 1 E (36 ST)
31. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
32. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
33. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
34. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
35. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
36. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 5 C, 6 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 5 C, 4 M, 1 E (36 ST)
37. Row: 1 E, 3 M, 6 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 5 M, 6 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
38. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 2 M, 3 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 2 M, 3 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
39. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
40. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 8 C, 4 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
41. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 8 C, 4 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
42. Row: 1 E, 2 M , 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 2 M,1 E (36 ST)
43. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 3 C, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 3 C, 2 M, 3 C, 4 M, 3 C, 2 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
44. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 6 C, 6 M, 6 C, 5 M, 6 C, 3 M, 1 E (36 ST)
45. Row: 1 E, 4 M, 5 C, 6 M, 4 C, 8 M, 5 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 ST)
46. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
47. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
48. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 ST)
Cast off but don’t cut of the thread. Work 17 Chain stitches with the 3.5 mm crochet hook and reattach the chain to the base with a slipped stitch. This greatest the hanger for the potholder.
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If the Potholder is worked with the Graph:
The white squares are the main Color on the side facing you at the time, the pink the contrast Color of the side facing you. The first and last stitches shown on the graph are always the edge stitches.
The even rows are read from left to right and the uneven from right to left.
Cast on is 36 stitches with both Colors held together. In the first row they need to be worked separate, for this decide which Color is the main Color of this row and knit the main Color and purl the contrast Color, due to the cast on they might not be in the right order on the needle just make sure to switch the place if the contrast Color is sitting in front of the main Color.
The edge stitches at the beginning of the row are slipped as if knitted both threads together and at the end of the row they are purled both threads together.
The stitches are cast off with both threads together as well.
work through the graph but do not cut off the thread and work the hanger as explained after the graph.
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Work 17 Chain stitches with the 3.5 mm crochet hook and reattach the chain to the base with a slipped stitch. This greatest the hanger for the potholder.
I hope you did enjoy my pattern, If you crochet this pattern I would appreciate a comment how you got along and if you upload a photo of your make on Instagram please don’t forget to tag and follow me @_lovelyyarns
You can find a lot more free crochet and knitting patterns here on my Blog on Crazypatterns just click on the tap posts on the very top of this entry. And if you like follow me on Crazypatterns so you won’t miss any new blog entries with free Patterns.
