As a mom and an enthusiastic hobby seamstress, I’d like to share a very practical and adorable project with you today: a cowl neck! This is perfect for babies and toddlers aged approximately 6 months to 2 years. A cowl neck is not only cozy and warm but also much safer and more comfortable than traditional scarves—especially for little ones who are constantly on the move. There’s nothing dangling around or an extra bulky knot to stuff into their jacket. For babies who don’t like having anything pulled over their face, this button-up version is ideal!
You can sew it using stretchable fabrics, non-stretchable fabrics, or a combination of both, depending on your preference and what you have on hand. This project is easy to make and a wonderful way to create something practical and beautiful for your little one. Let’s get started!
Material List:
- Outer and lining fabric
- Sewing machine, matching thread, and sewing needle
- Pins or fabric clips
- Scissors or rotary cutter and measuring tape
- Snap fasteners
- Iron or seam roller
Tips for Choosing Fabrics:
Although this pattern is specifically designed for non-stretchable fabrics, you can certainly use stretchable ones as well. Jersey, French terry, or sweatshirt fabric work wonderfully for this project. This allows you to adjust the warmth of the cowl to match outdoor temperatures simply by changing the lining fabric.
For my version, I made this cowl specifically for winter, using a cotton fleece for the lining and a cotton jersey for the outer fabric. The cotton fleece provides excellent warmth and is incredibly soft against the neck, while the jersey adds a cute pattern. Both fabrics are breathable, which is ideal. Especially for the lining, I always recommend using a breathable fabric to prevent sweating.
Preparing the Pattern
First, draw a rectangle measuring 15.7 x 14.7 cm (6.2 x 5.8 inches). Then mark a point 6 cm (2.4 inches) from the bottom-left corner and another point 2.2 cm (0.9 inches) from the top-left corner. Connect these two points with a curved line. Next, connect the 6 cm point to the bottom-right corner with another curved line.
The resulting shape will form the base of your pattern. If available, refer to the accompanying illustration to ensure your pattern matches the described shape.
The first pattern piece is ready! For the second piece, you can follow a similar process—this time using dimensions of 15.7 cm x 11.7 cm (6.2 x 4.6 inches).
Alternatively, you can trace the first pattern piece you just made. To adjust it, simply shift the right edge 3 cm (1.2 inches) to the left. This creates the slightly smaller second piece. Refer to the illustration if available to ensure accuracy.
You will need to cut the large pattern piece once on the fold from both the outer fabric and the lining fabric, and the small pattern piece twice as mirrored pieces from both the outer fabric and the lining fabric.
Sewing Together
First, place the smaller fabric pieces right sides together on the larger piece (for both the outer fabric and the lining fabric), aligning the short curved edges. Pin them securely in place.
Now, sew along these edges. Once opened up, it should look like this:
Since none of these seams need to be stretchy, you can use a straight stitch with a stitch length of 3 mm for the entire project. Alternatively, you can use an overlock, but the seams will be a bit thicker.
Next, press the seams open with an iron or flatten them with a seam roller.
Then, place the outer cowl fabric and lining fabric right sides together and pin them all around. Pay special attention to ensure that the seams match up perfectly.
Now, sew all around the cowl neck, but leave an opening of about 6 cm for turning. Be sure to backstitch both at the beginning and end of the seam, as well as at both sides of the turning opening.
Trim the seam allowances at the corners diagonally with scissors to prevent any bulging inside after turning the fabric right side out.
Turn the cowl through the opening and shape the corners and edges carefully.
To finish, close the turning opening using a mattress stitch.
How-To “Mattress Stitch”:
The mattress stitch, also known as the ladder stitch, is a sewing technique used to join two fabric edges together almost invisibly.
- Place the two fabric edges next to each other, with the right sides (the visible fabric sides) facing up.
- Thread a needle with matching thread and knot the end.
- Start stitching at the lower corner of one of the fabric edges. Insert the needle from the inside to the outside of the fabric so the knot will be hidden later.
- Then, insert the needle into the opposite fabric edge about 1-2 mm below the surface, and bring it out parallel to the edge, 2-3 mm further up.
- Switch to the other side, inserting the needle 1-2 mm below the surface, and bringing it out again 2-3 mm higher.
- Continue alternating between the two edges, which will create a ladder structure as long as the thread stays loose.
- Once you’ve sewn a section, gently pull the thread to close the fabric edges seamlessly.
- Finish by securing the thread with small backstitches or knots before trimming it.
The result is a neat, nearly invisible seam, perfect for high-quality and clean finishes.
To give the cowl a more professional look and prevent the fabric from distorting, it should now be topstitched close to the edge all around. You can use a decorative stitch or a simple triangle stitch, depending on your preference.
Finally, attach the snap fasteners: I’ve chosen four snaps, spaced about 3.7 cm apart. It’s best to measure the distance from one decorative stitch to the other, subtract 1 cm (so the snaps aren’t directly on the seam), and divide the result by the number of snaps you want to use, minus 1. The distance from the edge should be 2 cm.
Snap Distance Formula:
Distance between snaps = (Distance between the seams - 1 cm) ÷ (Number of snaps - 1)
Mark these spots with a fabric marker, then attach the snap fasteners.
The cowl neck is finished!
I hope you enjoyed the tutorial. If you have any questions or issues, please feel free to leave a comment. I’d also be happy to receive any positive feedback :)
Otherwise, have fun sewing, and be sure to check out my other free blog posts. You can also browse through my shop, where you’ll find many more sewing and crochet patterns for practical items or cute stuffed animals and amigurumi.