Size:
Approx. 20 x 20 cm
Material:
Knitting needles 4 mm and 3.5 mm
Crochet hook 3.5 mm
30 gr cotton Aran yarn in 2 colours
Gauge:
It is not that important as it just affects the finished size
Abbreviations:
St: Stitch
E: Edge Stitch
M: Main colour (Work the main colour of this side knit and the contrast colour purl)
C: Contrast colour (Work the contrast colour of this side knit and the main colour purl)
The dishcloth, pot holder is quite quick knitted, especially if the technique is known. The cloth is a cute idea for a kitchen decoration or perfect for Mother's Day or any birthday.
I tried to write the pattern as beginner-friendly as possible, if you have any questions or issues during knitting, I’m more than happy to help. Either via a comment here or via a private message.
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How to knit in Double Face:
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What is Double Face knitting?
Double Face Knitting is a technique in which we can work two sides at the same time, the pattern mirrors to the other side. Both sides are in stockinette stitch. It creates a reversible piece, perfect for warm items or knitting pieces with a pattern where we don't have to worry about floating yarns
I would recommend using a needle 0.5 or 1mm smaller than what’s written on the yarn (every person is different, so gauge is really important). Also, important is to keep a good tension, so the pattern looks even.
The stitches are always worked in 2 stitch groups, 1 knit 1 purl, the knit is for the front the purl for the back side. There are other techniques where this might change, as in ribbing or when garter stitch is wanted, but the first stitch of this group is always the stitch belonging to the front side, the second stitch to the back.
For Double face knit in the round, you'll just close to the round and work the chart always from the right to left. The outside colour is always knitted, and the inside colour is always purled.
Cast on: (2 Methods I use)
1. Method: The invisible cast on:
We always cast on the double number of stitches. Always 1 stitch for each colour. So, if the chart shows 12 st, we need 12 st in colour A and 12 st in colour b. so 24 stitches on the needle.
1. Start with a slipknot with both colours, but do not count this as a stitch. (This will be opened at the end)
2. Wrap one colour thread around your thump, the other around your index finger. Start with the colour of the index finger.
3.-5. Go underneath the front yarn and grab the back yarn from above and bring back, underneath the front yarn, to the front. Pull tight by spreading the fingers. The first stitch is on the needle
6. - 8. Go underneath the back yarn, grab the front yarn from above and bring back, underneath the back yarn, to the front. Pull tight by spreading the fingers.
Work 3. – 8. until all stitches are on the Needles.
Important when turning the work to start the first row, hold the threads and turn counterclockwise, so no stitch is accidentally opened
2. Method: The long tail cast on with both threads together:
Work this like the normal long tail cast on, just take both threads at the same time. The given nr of cast on stitches is for both colours together (if it says cast on 10 stitches you cast on 10 stitches with both colours, so you would have 20 in total)
With this method, the order of colour from the stitches might be wrong and has to be adjusted in the first working row. The first row is also where you decide which colour is the main colour of this side, and make sure this colour is the first worked of the double stitches with a knit and the other as a purl.
How to hold the threads:
There are many different ways on how to hold the threads, with a knit ring device, both hands, both threads left or right, one left one right. Whatever feels most comfortable for oneself.
I always hold both threads on the left hand, wrap both around the little finger, separate the threads with my middle finger and lay them both over the index finger.
Important is to keep the main colour of the side we are working at the moment to keep in the front, the other in the back.
For a knit stitch: keep both threads in the back and knit with colour A.
For a purl stitch: bring both yarns in the front, make sure to keep the colour B threads in second place, purl with colour B.
Start the Double Knitting:
The first stitch shows the main colour of this side. Due to the invisible cast on, the knit stitches are all twisted, so they need either be untwisted or worked through the back loop. This is only in the very first row.
Work now all the stitches in alternation 1 kn 1 pu, knit with both threads in the back, purl with both threads in front.
At the end of the first row, we'll reach the slipknot, which is just opened.
Edge Stitch: (from the second row on, again 2 methods I use)
1. Method: Gives a smooth edge with both colours separate:
Edge stitches can either be worked with 2 stitches knitted together with both threads (which I don’t find that nice) Or slip the last 2 stitches, which gives a nice border.
For this, work until 2 st left (one of each colour) the kn stitch is slipped as if to purl with both threads in the back. The purl stitch is slipped as if to purl with the associated thread in the front.
Turn the work and lay the thread which is now the main colour in front of the work for the first two stitches.
Work them as they appear, 1 knit with associated thread in the back the other in the front, 1 purl with both threads in the front.
2. Method: The edge stitches are worked together:
This method gives a smooth edge with both colours together.
The stitches are either knitted together or slipped together.
This method is worked as follows:
The first stitch of each row is slipped both threads together as a knit stitch. The last stitch of each row is slipped as if to purl, again both threads together.
Work patterns and follow graphs:
If worked flat, the graph is read all uneven nr from the right to left, all even nr from the left to right. (some designers do it differently). If worked in the round, always from right to left.
If not stated different, the white is always the main colour of the row worked and the black the second colour.
Work the stitches until the colour change is needed, twist the threads work the knit in the second colour and the purl in the main colour, twist back when all st are worked in the different colour to bring the threads back to the origin position.
Cast off: (2 Methods)
1. Method: with the sewing needle
This method creates a smooth ending with both colours separated, it fits the first method for the cast on and edge stitches to have the colour all the way through separate and a clear border.
Divide the stitches on two different needles, all stitches in colour A on one needle, all stitches in colour B on the second needle.
After the separation cut the threads, one will be used to bind off, the other one will be woven in. Use a darning needle to bind off.
1. Pull the yarn through the first st on the first needle purl wise without dropping stitch
2. Pull through the first stitch on second needle knit wise without dropping the stitch.
3. Pull through the first stitch on first needle knit wise and drop stitch
4. Pull through the next stitch on first needle purl wise without dropping stitch
5. Pull though the first stitch on the second needle, purl wise and drop stitch.
6. Pull through the next stitch on the second needle knit wise without dropping stitch
Repeat step 3 – 6 until all the stitches are worked.
2. Method: The “normal” way
With this method, the stitches are worked together like the second methods for the cast on and edge stitch it greatest a cast off with the colours “waved” into each other.
For this method, always knit both colours together, and cast off as usual but both colours together. Knit 2 stitches, slip the first stitch over the second, knit another one and slip the first again over the second, and so on until the end.
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The Opa pot holder:
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For this pattern, I have used the second method of the explained cast on, edge stitch and cast off with both threads held together for each of it.
Let’s start:
Cast on 36 stitches with both threads held together with the 4 mm knitting needle. Switch then to the 3.5 mm needle.
1. Row: 1 E, 34 M (as the stitches were cast on together they might not be in the correct order and need to be worked separately, just make sure to work them in the right order) 1 R (36 St)
2. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
3. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
4. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
5. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
6. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
7. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
8. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
9. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 4 C, 14 M, 4 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
10. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 5 C, 12 M, 5 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
11. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 7 C, 8 M, 7 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
12. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 7 C, 6 M, 7 C, 7 M, 1 E (36 St)
13. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 8 C, 2 M, 8 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 St)
14. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 18 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 St)
15. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 St)
16. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 St)
17. Row: 1 E, 10 M, 14 C, 10 M, 1 E (36 St)
18. Row: 1 E, 10 M, 14 C, 10 M, 1 E (36 St)
19. Row: 1 E, 9 M, 16 C, 9 M, 1 E (36 St)
20. Row: 1 E, 8 M, 18 C, 8 M, 1 E (36 St)
21. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
22. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
23. Row: 1 E, 6 M, 22 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
24. Row: 1 E, 11 M, 12 C, 11 M, 1 E (36 St)
25. Row: 1 E, 13 M, 8 C, 13 M, 1 E (36 St)
26. Row: 1 E, 14 M, 6 C, 14 M,1 E (36 St)
27. Row: 1 E, 14 M, 6 C, 14 M, 1 E (36 St)
28. Row: 1 E, 15 M, 4 C, 15 M, 1 E (36 St)
29. Row: 1 E, 15 M, 4 C, 15 M, 1 E (36 St)
30. Row: 1 E, 16 M, 2 C, 16 M, 1 E (36 St)
31. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
32. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
33. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
34. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
35. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
36. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
37. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 9 M, 2 C, 4 M, 5 C, 4 M, 1 E (36 St)
38. Row: 1 E, 3 M, 7 C, 3 M, 2 C, 9 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 St)
39. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 9 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 St)
40. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 7 C, 4 M, 8 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 St)
41. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 8 C, 3 M, 8 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 St)
42. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 1 E (36 St)
43. Row: 1 E, 2 M, 3 C, 2 M, 3 C, 3 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 1 E (36 St)
44. Row: 1 E, 3 M, 7 C, 3 M, 8 C, 4 M, 6 C, 3 M, 1 E (36 St)
45. Row: 1 E, 4 M, 4 C, 6 M, 7 C, 4 M, 5 C, 4 M, 1 E (36 St)
46. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
47. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
48. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
Cast off but don’t cut off the thread. Work 17 Chain stitches with the 3.5 mm crochet hook and reattach the chain to the base with a slipped stitch. This greatest the hanger for the pot holder.
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The Opi pot holder:
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For this pattern, I have used the second method of the explained cast on, edge stitch and cast off with both threads held together for each of it.
Let’s start:
Cast on 36 stitches with both threads held together with the 4 mm knitting needle. Switch then to the 3.5 mm needle.
1. - 36. Row: work them exactly like the ones from the first pattern, as the design only changes after the 37th row.
37. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 2 C, 8 M, 2 C, 3 M, 5 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
38. Row: 1 E, 5 M, 7 C, 3 M, 2 C, 8 M, 2 C, 1 E (36 St)
39. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 2 C, 8 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 4 M, 1 E (36 St)
40. Row: 1 E, 4 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 7 C, 3 M, 2 C, 7 M, 1 E (36 St)
41. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 2 C, 2 M, 8 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 4 M, 1 E (36 St)
42. Row: 1 E, 4 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 7 M, 1 E (36 St)
43. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 4 M, 2 C, 2 M, 2 C, 5 M, 2C, 4 M, 1 E (36 St)
44. Row: 1 E, 5 M, 7 C, 3 M, 8 C, 2 M, 2 C, 7 M, 1 E (36 St)
45. Row: 1 E, 7 M, 2 C, 3 M, 7 C, 4 M, 5 C, 6 M, 1 E (36 St)
46. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
47. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
48. Row: 1 E, 34 M, 1 E (36 St)
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Cast off but don’t cut off the thread. Work 17 Chain stitches with the 3.5 mm crochet hook and reattach the chain to the base with a slipped stitch. This greatest the hanger for the pot holder.
If the pot holder is worked with the graph:
The white squares are the main colour on the side facing you at the time, the pink the contrast colour of the side facing you. The first and last stitches shown on the graph are always the edge stitches.
The even rows are read from left to right and the uneven from right to left.
Cast on is 36 stitches with both colours held together. In the first row, they need to be worked separate, for this, decide which colour is the main colour of this row and knit the main colour and purl the contrast colour, due to the cast on, they might not be in the right order on the needle just make sure to switch the place if the contrast colour is sitting in front of the main colour.
The edge stitches at the beginning of the row are slipped as if knitted both threads together, and at the end of the row they are purled both threads together.
The stitches are cast off with both threads together as well.
Work through the graph but do not cut off the thread and work the hanger as explained after the graph.
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Work 17 Chain stitches with the 3.5 mm crochet hook and reattach the chain to the base with a slipped stitch. This greatest the hanger for the pot holder.
I hope you enjoyed my pattern, If you crochet this pattern I would appreciate a comment how you got along and if you upload a photo of your make on Instagram, please don’t forget to tag and follow me @_lovelyyarns
You can find a lot more free crochet and knitting patterns here on my Blog on Crazypatterns just click on the tap posts on the very top of this entry. And if you like, follow me on Crazypatterns so you won’t miss any new blog entries with free Patterns.
